Consumer & Retail Section Editor

Kimberly Stromberg

Kimberly currently works as a Private Equity Associate in New York City. She graduated from Yale University in 2007.
Consumer and Retail

Uncorked: The “New Normal” in the Wine Industry

wine2FEATURE: The current economic climate has forced the majority of wine consumers to look to less expensive options when grabbing wine off the shelf or sorting through restaurant wine lists. The recession hit the wine industry at a time when businesses were booming and shamelessly increasing markups. Grape growers subsequently followed by increasing the cost of buying fruit by the ton for top vineyards. Pricing was getting out of control, as consumers displayed their willingness to spend excessive amounts on their go-to bottle of Chardonnay. Still, even as consumers are forced to pinch their pocketbooks and save their pennies, overall consumption has remained level. However, the average price point is dipping at an alarming rate for wineries who built their business models around $50 bottles of Pinot Noir and Syrah. 

This shift in consumer spending in the wine industry marks a new era for wineries and grape growers. As with other luxury commodities, the wine bubble popped and there is significant trading down occurring in the market in both off and on premise accounts (retail and restaurants). Wineries and distribution companies have been faced with a challenging predicament this past year in particular, as they witnessed warehouse spaces fill up, prompting an urgency to move through vintages and create space for the next. New fruit must be harvested, fermented and bottled every year in the fall, and the cycle can’t stop just because the previous vintage’s sales have halted.

Since wine’s value is really dictated by the market’s perception of its quality and availability, discounting is a very touchy subject. “Blowing out” 2007 Sauvignon Blanc to make space and bring in some cash flow has the potential to severely damage a brand once that vintage is cleared out. What happens when the 2008 is released at the undiscounted price? Not only is there the risk that accounts will drop the wine and make space for a Sauvignon Blanc that is available at the lower price, but customers will mentally knock down the “value” of the wine. A $20 bottle of wine suddenly is perceived as a $13 dollar bottle of wine, and it is difficult to get the consumer back in the mindset to spend $20 when they have previously bought the wine for $13, particularly if they were focused on price and not brand loyalty. 

The fact is that there is an endless sea of inspired wines that fill voids left by expensive Napa Cabernets and Burgundies. New areas are being highlighted as wine hot spots, most notably places such as Argentina, Spain, and Chile. As people begin to move into this domain of value-driven wines and explore a greater diversity of geography and varietals, what is the incentive to shift back to the more expensive choices in established segments, many of which were dramatically affected by the boom and bust? 

Wine will always be sold, and consumption is on the rise if anything, but the market has shifted and price point has become and will continue to be much more important as competition floods in. Greater focus on efficiency, packaging, branding, and down-and-dirty hand selling is becoming an industry standard that will surely lead the way to a new era in the wine industry.

Joanie Hudson is the Marketing and National Sales Director for Santa Barbara Winery in Santa Barbara, California. She graduated from UCSB in 2007. Read more of Joanie’s writing at www.sbwinery.com.
Bookmark and Share
  • There are a few unique challenges that wineries face in that regard to making less wine every year (in a similar fashion to clothing manufacturers including less pieces in their lines). First of all, wineries that have their own vineyards have a certain quantity of vines that produce fruit each year. That fruit is going to be produced no matter what. Making less wine from that estate fruit wouldn’t solve the problem. Also, many wineries are locked into 2-4 year contracts with growers, so they are compelled to get fruit from those vineyards as well.

    Producing too little wine can also be risky, particularly if the winery sells their wine through a national or state distribution system. Since competition is so intense, wineries risk losing important placements that they have worked hard for if the wine runs out before they have the next vintage available. This is why many small wineries work with allocation systems in retail accounts and restaurants, carefully monitoring what is sold where, so that they are able to provide their distribution channel with a continuous cycle of placed wines.

    Some wineries that purchase fruit are deciding to make less wine from 2008 and 2009 harvests. This does help to ease the backup.

    Restaurants are reacting strongly to the challenging economic times. Inventory is backing up, and the more expensive bottles ($20 and up retail) are basically frozen at many establishments. Since these bottles aren’t selling, they aren’t buying from distributors. Distributors are relying on the sales of lower priced bottles and by the glass placements for their commissioned incomes. Also, since credit is limited, restaurants are not able to keep as much inventory in stock (from what I understand).

    Restaurants are responding by lowering their mark ups, lowering corkage fees (the charge when guests bring a bottle of their own in), and buying more value wines from distributors. I was at a restaurant the other day that had a small section of their wine list under a “reserve” category. The wines weren’t selling, so they changed the heading to “favorite picks,” and the wines started depleting, demonstrating the stigma people have against overspending on wine right now – consumers are searching for value on restaurant lists. I am so interested to see if this permanently changes the way restaurants mark up wine on their lists…
  • Kimberly Stromberg
    Thanks for the great post Joanie! I can’t wait to use the term “blowing out” at my next dinner party.

    One question I have on the piece relates to the statement that “New fruit must be harvested, fermented and bottled every year in the fall, and the cycle can’t stop just because the previous vintage’s sales have halted.” I understand that you cant shift the cycle due to seasonality, but isn’t it conceivable that wineries could cut back on the number of varieties they develop in a given vintage (the same way that many fashion lines are cutting the number of pieces in a given collection)? This would probably help the inventory issue, and might even put pressure on consumers to buy the older versions. My guess is that wineries have been reluctant to go down this path because of 1) fear of competition and 2) brand image — you can’t be the only Napa winery without a 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon…


    I would also be curious to know how restaurants are reacting to the “new normal.” Are they simply selling more at a lower price point, or have they actually taken the step of revising their wine lists to offer cheaper options entirely?
blog comments powered by Disqus